Archive for November, 2006

Thursday, November 9th, 2006
German Shepherd
dynomite asked:


I just got a german shepherd from a person I know. They were going to give her up because she shed too much hair and they didn’t like her. I adopted her and I love her so much. She is such a good dog. I can’t believe how people can treat animals so awful. Her litter should arrive in the first week of May. My question is what can I do to make sure she has the best delivery possible. Should I feed her a certain diet or include certain things? I have an appointment with the vet but not until two weeks, just wanting to get advice on how to give her the best care possible. Thanks!
I am currently feeding her pedigree puppy food. Is that ok or should I buy something else? We also built a huge pen for her so she can have her puppies there. She is already use to it, we leave her in there for a few hours a day, and I do walk her daily. I bought a pool and have some hay ready to fill it with when she delivers, is that ok?

Start a Doggie Daycare
 
Wednesday, November 8th, 2006
puppies
Chattie_baby asked:

Including their vaccines. The puppies are about four weeks old now.

Dog Lovers Mega Pack
 
Wednesday, November 8th, 2006
Poodle
Taylor B asked:


Hi, I have a female poodle and I know that other dogs becides poodles can be breed to her but I would like to know all of my options. If you have any information that can help me it will be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Dove Cresswells Dog Training
 
puppies
Susan Thixton asked:


“Why do some pet foods have puppy food (or kitten food) and others do not? Shouldn’t I give my new pup – puppy food?”

Before I answer that question – I need to share a little pet food history. Back in the early days of commercial pet food, veterinarians noticed that when puppies were fed the same commercial food that the adult dogs were eating – they did not grow and thrive the way they should. Back then, commercial dog foods and cat foods contained very little quality meat – the protein mostly came from grains the food contained. It was determined that puppies and kittens need a higher protein food in order to develop properly. This change was important, however the bad news is that the protein was not required to come from meat sources – the majority came from inferior grain sources. The new requirements just required a higher percentage of protein for a growth food – a puppy food or a kitten food – there were no specifications as to where the protein came from (still holds true today).

Today, AAFCO has set standards for puppy foods to be a minimum of 22% protein (adult dog food minimum 18% protein), standards for kitten food must be a minimum of 30% protein (adult cat food 26% minimal protein). Besides a few other very insignificant differences – the amount of protein is the only difference between an adult dog food or an adult cat food to a puppy food or kitten food.

So, to answer the question above – you can feed a puppy food or kitten food, but you don’t have to if you are feeding the right food! Remember, except for percentage of protein, there are no significant differences in an adult pet food to kitten or puppy food.

Many pet food lines have protein percentages above the minimal requirements for puppies and kittens. Some pet food formulators have determined in their research that 18% protein for adult dogs and 26% protein for adult cats is not optimal – so they formulate their foods with higher protein levels than the required minimal. In other words – many adult foods meet the same nutritional requirements for puppies and kittens even though they are not labeled specifically as puppy food or kitten food. As an example…ABC Chicken & Rice Puppy Food has a protein percentage of 23% and ABC Chicken Kitten Food has a protein percentage of 32% – but XYZ Chicken & Rice Dog food has a protein percentage of 25% and XYZ Chicken Cat Food as a protein percentage of 35%. Both ABC brands and XYZ brands meet the required protein levels for puppy or kitten foods as well as adult dog and adult cat food. So, a puppy owner or a kitten owner could feed their new baby the XYZ pet food – even though it is not labeled specifically for puppies or kittens.

Before I go any further – I have to mention a little about canned pet foods. ANY canned or pouched pet food (a moist pet food) contains at least 70% to 85% moisture. Protein percentages in canned pet foods vary from 7% to 11% – far below the minimal requirements necessary for adult dogs and cats as well as kittens and puppies. Pet owners do not want to feed solely a canned or pouched pet food to adult dogs and cats or puppies and kittens. They simply do not provide the necessary nutrition. If you want to feed a canned pet food, feed it WITH a quality dry food. Maybe soft for breakfast and kibble for dinner.

OK, back to puppy foods and kitten foods…a common question I hear on this subject is…’Is it ok for my adult dog (or cat) to be eating a food that has such a high protein percentage?’ Many pet owners – after hearing my explanation of puppy foods and kitten foods, are then concerned about feeding an adult dog or cat a pet food that has a higher percentage of protein. The best way I can ease those concerns is from sharing the words of many pet nutrition experts. As a dog or cat goes from being a puppy or kitten, to a young adult, to a mature adult, to a senior pet – their body continually produces new cells, new tissue, and new muscle – the entire process feeds off of protein. So the pet continues to need a quality protein source throughout its entire life. (There are exceptions for senior pets and pets with illnesses – this discussion is strictly for healthy animals – consult your veterinarian if you have any questions.) Science – not speculation – has determined that a higher protein level benefits young dogs and cats as well as adult pets. I have reviewed some dog and cat foods in Petsumer Report that have protein levels as high as 50%! I’m not so confident that 50% protein in a dog food or cat food is optimal for house pets (more for a working dog – example being a working cattle dog tending to a herd) – the point is that higher protein level pet foods are out there, and not all of them are labeled as puppy food or kitten food.

The thing that makes most pet owners choose a puppy food or kitten food is the marketing. Those television commercials that show adorable puppies and kittens stating this food ‘meets the unique needs’ or ‘specially formulated’ or ‘Extra Nutrition’ or ‘developed to meet the higher energy needs’ and so forth have lured pet owners into firm beliefs that their puppy or kitten has to have a puppy food or kitten food. The cute little faces along with the expertly researched tag lines – have helped to grow the puppy food and kitten food business into phenomenal numbers. Part of the marketing strategy is to get puppy owners hooked into a particular emotional commitment to the manufacturer through a puppy or kitten food. If you start off with ABC puppy food – the marketing goal is for you to stay loyal to that company later with ABC adult dog food. The pet food manufacturers have become SO successful at this marketing technique – several manufacturers that make a quality maintenance pet food (not a specific puppy food or kitten food) have been forced to package their food in a puppy or kitten format.

I am not saying that puppy foods and kitten foods are bad – it still boils down to ingredients in the pet food. What I am saying is that it is not a requirement to feed a puppy or kitten specifically a puppy food or a kitten food. As long as you provide them with a quality pet food that meets the protein percentage they need – you are fine.

Always, always, always – consult your veterinarian.

And one more quick bit of information – I wish I could tell you that when you find a good puppy food or kitten food, with quality human grade US ingredients, and added health bonuses such as chelated or proteinated minerals and probiotics – that you can stick with that same manufacturer for your adult pet food and treats…but that is not always the case. Actually it is more just the opposite. From reviewing many lines of pet food and pet treats from one manufacturer for Petsumer Report, I have found that many pet food manufacturers make some pet foods that have quality human grade ingredients and then their pet treats are close to junk food. While others might have one or two varieties of pet food that are good, and have several more varieties that I would never recommend a pet owner to feed. It’s just not that easy. You must look at the ingredients, ask the questions, and look at the Guaranteed Analysis and Best By Date on everything.

Wishing you and your pet the best.

Start a Doggie Daycare

 
Bulldog
sam asked:


We started our Bulldog puppy on the B.A.R.F. diet, so far he loves it, but he’s not too good about being able to break/chew on the bones, so he usually just tries to swallow them. Is there something that can be done to try and teach him to do this? Or should we just stop giving him bones?

Sit Stay Fetch, Good Dog!
 
Tuesday, November 7th, 2006
gallomallet asked:


The reason why dead puppies aren’t much fun.

Dog Food Secrets!

 
Tuesday, November 7th, 2006
Pugs
Ryan K asked:


I have two female pugs. They are sisters from the same litter, but we got them one year apart. They were doing great for about a year and then started fighting and throwing a lot of grass in the yard. How can we fix this. THe play great together, but will get into fights. THey sleep on the couch together and even clean each other.

Dog Food Secrets!
 
Monday, November 6th, 2006
cocker spaniel
mollzk5 asked:


My Cocker Spaniel just turned 6 years old and has never had a litter before. I would like her to have some puppies but dont know what the age cut off is for a female dog to become pregnant. Is she too old to start now?

Dove Cresswells Dog Training
 
Friday, November 3rd, 2006
puppies
Blair Stephens asked:


When and How Do I Train My Puppy?

Anyone who has ever had a dog knows that training a new puppy is a challenge, but essential. With any new dog, puppy training starts the day that you bring your new pet home and continues for months as they continue to learn the basics becoming a part of the family. By the time you bring your new puppy home they are ready to learn. In fact, puppies can be trained from a very early age as long as we don’t expect too much of them right away. By natural design the mother dog has been educating her litter for several weeks, preparing them to survive on their own. By seven weeks the puppy’s development allows him to leave the mother and ensures the strongest human ties and best socialization possible. Older puppies may be less inclined to attach to humans right away, but eventually with love and affection and our constant interaction the bond will be just as strong. No matter what age you bring your puppy home, the important thing to remember is that they are ready to learn, they just need patience and practice!

Dog training at this early stage will focus on the essentials; house training, chewing, digging, jumping, and learning to wear a collar and walk on a leash. The most important thing to remember about training your puppy is that you are creating boundaries and establishing house rules that will be in place for a lifetime, making your time together the best possible. The groundwork you lay today will allow you to have a wonderful, productive relationship with your dog every day.

Responding To His/Her Name:

The first place to start training is to begin training your puppy to respond to his name being called. You can begin by calling the puppy’s name as you feed him his meals so that the puppy starts to associate his or her name with his food- a good thing! After a few days you can change the order, so that you call his name, wait for him to look at you, and then give him a treat. Once he’s responding on a regular basis, you can phase out the treats, using your voice (good puppy!) and your and petting to praise him and let him know that you are pleased with him. Treats can still be used on an unpredictable schedule as a reward, but the puppy is responding to your voice and praise more than looking for his payment of the food or treats. Having your dog recognize his name and respond by looking at you will prepare him for dog obedience, puppy training classes and more!

House Training

On his first day in your home you should begin house training your puppy. Most people are surprised, but house training is one of the easiest things to teach a dog. Because dogs are clean by nature and do not want to soil their ‘den’, it can be particularly useful to use the crate method of house training. The first thing to keep in mind with house training is that you must supervise your puppy closely and give the pup the chance to go outside when he has to relieve herself.

Young puppies are not ready to have full access to your whole house, it will overwhelm and either intimidate or over-excite them. One of the biggest pitfalls in house training fails is when people allow their puppy more freedom than he can handle within the home and don’t supervise his initial experiences going potty outside. It is important for owners to set aside time to take the new puppy out, watch them go and bring them back in so that the puppy begins to understand how you want them to handle their natural urges. We can give a general outline of what you can need to do to maximize house training, remember that you should always consult a professional trainer to guide you through the process.

Method One: Crate Training

You can tap into the puppy’s natural desire to be clean and not soil the area in which he sleeps by using a crate. Using a crate to replicate the safe, secure “den” environment can aid your house training efforts, as long as he is given the opportunity to get out of his crate when necessary.

After hooking the puppy to a leash, let him out from the dog crate and take him out to the area, the backyard, a nearby park or green space, where you want him to ‘go’ or ‘eliminate’. If he goes, praise him. If he does not then put him back into his crate and try again in about 15 minutes or so. Continue with this dog training cycle, building a routine for you and your dog. If an outing is successful, then you can allow the pup some freedom for twenty minutes or so and you can gradually extended the time as he grows older and more reliable about not having accidents in the house. Remember a seven-week-old puppy does not have a great deal of bladder control, so accidents are nearly impossible to avoid completely. You can not expect the puppy to go more than a few hours without having to eliminate, and don’t expect him to wait once he is out of his crate to go, instead take him straight outside to avoid any problems.

Before taking your puppy out for the first time, decide what word or phrase you would like to associate with his behavior or action that you desire. In the beginning, the puppy won’t understand the word, but if you use “hurry up”, or “go potty” and continue to repeat the phrase until he goes, praising him/her when it happens, your puppy will learn to associate these words with the action. Later, when in a hurry or inclement weather you can use the cue word to get your dog to relieve himself in quick time, without having to wait in the scorching sun, or freezing rain.

Method Two: Crate Training with Doggy Door

Another, and many say easier, method for house training is to use a crate with a dog door and an enclosed dog run. First, you position the dog crate against the dog door which will allow the dog to go out whenever he needs. Because his small size, the dog door may need to be taped or otherwise rigged up so the puppy can comfortably go through the dog door. With the crate set up to the dog door, your puppy learns quickly to let himself out of his containment area to relieve himself. This method also helps him develop some independence always having his human to watch over him. One important thing to consider with this system is that when you first let your puppy out of his crate, you should still take your puppy immediately to the outside area so that he can go. Even though your crate has access to the outside, puppy may have been resting and not recently “emptied out.” It won’t take much excitement or physical movement for the puppies need to “go” to be present and we don’t want mistakes that could easily have been prevented.

When the pup isn’t in his crate, you need to use constant supervision to keep him from having accidents. The best way to have a constant eye on your puppy is to literally tie or tether the pup to your waist with a leash or line, or you can tether him to a piece of furniture, but be sure that he has no more than three feet of freedom in any direction. Remember that a puppy tethered to furniture should be watched carefully or he may chew it. Crating, supervising and tethering are examples of management systems used to support the dog until he is fully trained.

Because dogs are inherently pack animals, they prefer to be with us rather than to be alone. Most cases of adult “separation anxiety” would never develop if the dog, as a puppy, had been trained in the one of the management systems just described because early on the puppy would learn to deal with being alone, handling is own needs, without access to chew or destroy things. Give it a try and see if it benefits your new puppy and your family.

Remote Collar Training:

Have you wondered if using a remote electronic collar can work for training a puppy? The answer is, yes. Why? Because the Sit Means Sit remote collar training system, developed by Fred Hassen, is a proven, effective and gentle training method tailored individually to your dog’s needs. Dog training, obedience, puppy, and even agility training are well suited to the remote collar training method. Sit Means Sit uses the better quality remote collars on the market, which means that these are fully adjustable for different dogs. The remote collar is used as a cue system similar to a tap on the shoulder that says “yoo-hoo” to someone in an effort to let them know you are talking to them. In other words, the collar is never used with a puppy as punishment, but instead as a means to successfully gain the puppy’s attention. In any case, you should seek a professional’s advice and aid in this type of training to avoid any elements of confusion for your pup.

Is there a specific age at which dogs can begin remote collar training? No. Common sense will tell you when your dog is physically coordinated enough to go for walks on a leash, which is a good indicator that he is ready for further training. Another indicator may be when he is active enough that you feel he is ready for more advanced training. He’s your pup knowing when he is ready for further training is personal choice akin to whether your child is ready for kindergarten. Some children are ready at just under five while some need another year. Pups, like kids, mature at individual rates. He’s your puppy, enjoy him but remember he needs rules, supervision, attention, exercise, good positive mental outlets, good food and lots of rest to grow up strong, healthy and well behaved!

Dog Food Secrets!

 
Friday, November 3rd, 2006
trainwrecka asked:


Two golden retriever puppies playing on a foldable lawn chair while the tune “Wipe Out” plays in the background.

Dog Food Secrets!

 

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