John Burns asked:


Deciding to buy a puppy should be a careful, well-thought out decision. A dog can be the most rewarding of pets, but also one of the most demanding. Before you buy a puppy, please think first. Is there really time for a dog in your life, and can you give a commitment that might for 12 years, possibly more?

Do you have the time to provide the exercise and training that a dog requires throughout its life, provide a safe and secure home and afford a suitable and nutritious diet that will ensure the very best of health?

You should also take into consideration your health and age. Do you want an active or sedentary animal? Some dogs require almost constant attention, lots of exercise and stimulation. Others are more laid back; therefore you need to research which dog will suit you and your family’s lifestyle. For instance if you live in a flat and have limited free time, a Border Collie or Springer Spaniel would not be such a good idea, and would probably lead to behavioural difficulties, not only for the dog!

You will naturally want a puppy with a good temperament who will adapt happily to life as part of the family. Buying a puppy that has been home reared; exposed to everyday sights, sounds and smells should help the transition from life with Mum and litter mates to a new home and environment.

If you’re buying from a breeder make sure that they will let you come and see the puppies with their Mum and will answers all of your questions. Never ever let anyone bring the puppy out to you – you really do need to see the puppy and Mum together. If the person selling you the puppy tells you that this is not possible then just walk away.

This might seem like common sense, but the sad fact is that too many people are persuaded to buy a puppy at under 4 weeks of age, maybe without even seeing the mother. Then there are tales of woe from new owners who bought from a pet shop or puppy farm where the pup had been exposed to illness, fear or stress, and then wonder why they are experiencing health or behaviour problems later.

There are arguments as to the best time to separate a puppy from its mother.

The optimum time for socialisation is between 6 – 8 weeks when the puppy’s instinct to make friends with strangers overcomes its natural wariness, and this is generally considered the ideal time period for removing a puppy from its litter mates and mother.

For a puppy, being taken away from its mother and placed into a strange environment where nothing is familiar can be a frightening experience. Spend the first few days welcoming the puppy into your family, giving it lots of attention and mental stimulation and showing it the basics of what’s right and what’s wrong, where it can eat, sleep and go to the toilet.

Create a positive experience at all times. The escape and fear response has not fully developed in the first 12 weeks of development and so things out there in the ‘big wide world’ will not be so scary. Puppies do need to get used to the various stimuli that they will encounter in everyday life as early as possible. These include car rides, household and other strange noises, other animals, water and traffic.

Puppies go through many changes in the first 12 months of their lives and most of their learning and behavioural patterns are learnt in this time. Teach the puppy to socialise with humans and other dogs as soon as possible. A puppy has a short attention span so all training sessions should be frequent but brief. Simple obedience and the discouragement of unwanted behaviour will help to show you are ‘worthy’ of the puppy’s respect. Praise is important!

The earlier the training the better, even if it’s just the basics.

Vaccination is important to prevent your dog from becoming ill from infectious diseases. It stimulates the body’s own defence system to produce protective antibodies in the blood. The micro-organisms that cause disease can be widespread in certain areas of the U.K and unvaccinated dogs are at risk from a range of life-threatening diseases such as canine distemper, parvovirus, leptospirosis, infectious canine hepatitis and kennel cough.

A course of vaccinations will be needed for your puppy. These are usually given at around 9 and 12 weeks of age.

Worming is also important. It is possible that your puppy already has worms, which have been passed from its mother, and worming should be done every month until the puppy is 6 months old and then every 3-6 months.

It is important to choose the correct diet for your pup. Rapid growth can cause health problems in later life, so it’s best to feed a high quality, low protein and low fat food, such as BURNS Mini Bites, to enable your puppy to grow strong but steady. Avoid the temptation to fill the puppy with treats and sweets on top of his daily allowance, and if you do then take what ever treats are given out of the total food given in the day. Always provide a ready supply of fresh drinking water.

Puppies need lots of time, care and patience. Follow these guidelines and your efforts will be positively rewarded.

Sit Stay Fetch, good Dog!

Anna Hart asked:

Labrador Puppies Hunting Homes

Visit a breeder or animal shelter, and you find many Labrador puppies hunting homes. Some will be purebred, AKC-registered dogs. Some will be mixed breed. Some will be bred for pets, while others will be bred for show. If you want Labrador puppies for hunting, however, you will want to look for specific characteristics.

Breeder

The best Labrador puppies for hunting are probably those that come from a good breeder. The breeder should be acquainted with the standard for the breed. More importantly, though, the breeder should be dedicated to, and passionate about, training, breeding, and hunting Labrador Retrievers.

Ask basic questions. Does the breeder use only breeding stock that comes from the finest field trial and hunt test lines available? Ask to see pedigrees of the breeding dogs. Ask to see proof of awards won.

Does the breeder monitor the health of breeding dogs? Are their Labs’ eyes and hips screened for genetic disorders before breeding? Will they guarantee the health of the Labrador puppies’ eyes and hips for a period of time? Do they keep kennels clean, clearly disinfected?

Are testimonials available from customers who have purchased Labrador puppies for hunting? Is there a possibility of talking directly to any of those people to learn more?

Labrador Puppies

Observe the puppies carefully, and ask questions. It won’t be too hard to choose the puppies that look nicest to you, but there are more important matters at stake if you want Labrador puppies for hunting.

Run through the following check list. Labrador puppies that have all or most of these 7 features are likely to be the most trainable for hunting. The 7 features are not necessarily listed in order of importance.

1. The Labrador puppies have been well socialized, including learning to be comfortable with children as well as adults: learning to get along with other dogs; introduction to birds; crate conditioning; and kennel conditioning.

2. The Labrador puppies have been introduced to water if the season permits.

3. They are obviously intelligent.

4. They are bright and alert when playing.

5. All of the Labrador puppies have respected pedigrees.

6. All of the Labrador puppies have had quality veterinarian care, being wormed, and receiving necessary shots.

7. They are clean and shiny.

New Owner

No matter how wonderful the Labrador puppies hunting homes are, if they are going to be Labrador puppies for hunting, the new owner will have a lot of responsibility. You will have to take those intelligent, energetic, eager Labrador puppies and teach them to retrieve birds for you. To do so, you may want to consider the following points.

1. It is a fallacy that your Labrador puppies must stay outside in a kennel if they are going to be good hunting dogs. Labrador puppies bond with their owners better, and develop much better temperaments if they are permitted to live indoors with the family.

2. For the first 5 or 6 months, you may want to teach your Labrador puppies little else than retrieving. That is, you may want to teach them to come when called. This is of topmost importance in retrieving. It is also important when an emergency arises, such as an unexpected vehicle, a snake, etc. It is a lesson that human children also should learn from a young age. You want your Labrador puppies to learn that “Come” means immediately running directly to you.

3. Some puppies are taught to sit when they are very young, but they receive so much praise, all they want to do is sit. Some are started out with an obedience course that would be used for any pet dog. They learn to obey many commands, but end up not wanting to add retrieving to the list.

4. Keeping Labrador puppies in the house allows you to use the hallway as an early “retrieving ground” for the puppies. When you throw a dummy down the hall, they have nowhere to go but back to you. As the puppies learn, you can sit to one side of the hallway, making them come directly to you. If they try to run past you, you can easily capture them.

If you are not experienced at training Labrador puppies for hunting, you may want to enlist a trainer who is, or follow use of the many books that offer complete training programs. Finally, even though you got your Labrador puppies for hunting, enjoy their undying affection and humor.

By: Anna Hart

Start a Doggie Daycare

Caroline Kent asked:


You’ve just adopted the cutest, tiniest teacup Chihuahua puppy! You’ve brought him home and got him accustomed to his surroundings.

And now it’s “housetraining a new puppy” time!

Uh, oh! But, there’s one small problem. You’ve got to keep your puppy inside or that big ol’ dog next door will eat him for breakfast! Or perhaps you live in an area, such as a city, house, or apartment where there is no access to a yard or fenced-in area?

Obviously, your cute teacup puppy can’t use the litter box with the cat!

Now you’re sweating at the thought of urine stains on your beautiful Persian carpet or a pile of poop on your expensive exotic hardwood flooring! You can relax, because there is a solution!

Housetraining a new puppy can easily be done inside by paper training!

Here are some basic guidelines for paper training a puppy:

1. Place several layers of newspaper in a spot that is away from the puppy’s feeding and watering dishes.
After your puppy eats and drinks, take him to the papers. Also take your puppy to the papers, to urinate and defecate, the first thing in the morning and the last thing at night. He must also be taken to the papers after he chews, plays hard, and comes out of his crate.

2. Change the papers after each time that the puppy uses them.
Under the fresh papers, put a lightly soiled one. Your puppy will be encouraged to go to the bathroom by the scent left on the soiled paper.

3. Clean underneath the papers with an odor neutralizer.
If you fail to do so, your puppy will smell his scent on the floor and start sniffing around the edge of the paper. That’s a no, no! You want to keep your puppy ON the paper and using an odor neutralizer will keep him focused on using the bathroom on the paper!

4. Clap your hands to startle your puppy if he makes a mistake.
Please! Just startle him. Don’t scare the poor thing half to death! This will distract your puppy and stop him from urinating. Pick him up and take him to the paper where you want him to go. Lavishly praise your puppy when he finishes going to the bathroom!

5. Don’t go BALISTIC if your puppy urinates or defecates off of the papers.
Don’t punish him by spanking, yelling, or rubbing his nose in the mess! Remember, your puppy is just a baby. He made a mistake; he did not commit the crime of the century!

6. Do not use a product containing ammonia to clean up after your puppy.
Urine contains ammonia and that lovely familiar scent will invite your puppy to urinate again on that very same spot! If you are concerned about permanent odor or staining, putting plastic or waxed paper underneath the papers will help preserve your carpet or flooring.

7. You must be consistent.
Put your puppy on a schedule. If you alter the schedule or let your puppy do something differently one day and not the next, he will get confused!

8. Keep a close eye on your puppy.
Never, ever leave an untrained puppy alone in your house! Doing so is just asking for trouble!

9. Carry your puppy to different parts of your apartment or house and say “papers!”
Then, carry him back to the papers. This will train your puppy to go to the papers when he has the desire to go to the bathroom!

Paper training a puppy requires a great deal of consistency, a little common sense, and meticulous attention to clean up. With a little effort and patience, your puppy will eventually understand what you want him to do. In time, going to the bathroom on the papers will become second nature to him.

And you will have survived paper training a puppy!

Dove Cresswells Dog Training

Marius Ciobanu asked:


Few things can make one’s heart melt like a new puppy, and few breeds of puppies have the enduring charm and warmth like a Labrador puppy. It should come as no surprise that the Labrador puppy is the most popular breed of dog in the United States and United Kingdom. The Labrador puppy is more than cute though, they are also good natured, energetic, and one of the fastest learning breeds. However, despite all of their positive attributes, prospective Labrador puppy owners need to know that it takes some work and research to help them select the Labrador puppy that is best suited for them.

The first thing to remember when considering a Labrador puppy is that it is a pure bred dog, therefore it is incumbent on the potential owner to find a competent, responsible, and knowledgeable breeder. A good breeder of Labrador puppies will conduct health tests on the male and female adult Labradors before breeding. This will help ensure that your puppy is healthy and free of disease. Competent Labrador puppy breeders also consider genetics when breeding dogs, and they will only breed dogs that have excellent temperaments. Good breeding will help give you a Labrador puppy that possesses all the great traits that they are known for.

When it comes time to select a puppy from a litter, be careful and cautious in order to avoid the pitfalls that trap many Labrador puppy owners. It seems natural for someone to see the puppy that approaches them first, or the one that seems the most affectionate and friendly, to be the “pick of the litter.” However, this selection technique can often lead owners astray, and when they select a Labrador puppy with those traits they are often selecting the most forceful and domineering puppy in the litter. Remember that the calmer and gentler Labrador puppy that approaches you cautiously, or watches you from the background, is often the puppy that is most likely to be an obedient, enjoyable pet.

It is equally important to look for the Labrador puppy that seems very shy or even scared. While one should steer clear of the most outgoing and aggressive Labrador puppies, they should be equally concerned with Labrador puppies that are timid, nervous, or shy. The shy Labrador puppy often grows up to be a shy, scared dog that is quick to bark or snap at anything that scares it.

Once you have eliminated the most bold, and the most bashful, your best bet is to focus your attention on the Labrador puppy that possesses traits that are more “in the middle.” A well suited Labrador puppy should be curious, friendly, and cautiously interested in you and what you are doing. Move the puppy away from his littermates and see how he reacts to you. Once you find that puppy that acts well in a crowd, or alone, likes to wag his tail, and likes to be in your company, you may have found that special Labrador puppy that will become part of your family.

Start a Doggie Daycare

Chris Smith asked:


It’s an annoying fact of dog ownership that most puppies love to bite.
The good news is that biting is a perfectly natural thing for a puppy to do, your puppy
is not being vicious or aggressive. Most young puppies go through this biting or nipping
phase as they are teething.
How To Stop A Puppy From Biting
It is very cute when very young puppies start to mouth or bite your little finger, but as
they get a bit older it can develop into a real problem. That’s why it is important to let
your puppy know that biting is unacceptable behavior right from the start. It is much easier
to prevent puppy biting problems than to re-train puppies who already nip.
Before I go into specific methods you can use to stop your puppy from biting it is important
to keep these basic rules in mind:
- Never slap or hit your puppy in the face. This does not work! your puppy will just
think you are playing rough or may become afraid of you. You could end up with much bigger
problems than a bit of puppy biting.
- The general rule to stop problem nipping is to encourage acceptable behavior and
always discourage unacceptable behavior.
- Never play tug of war or wrestling type games with a puppy who bites. It will only
encourage him more.
- If you don’t show your puppy that biting will not be tolerated, he will not know he is
doing anything wrong. Don’t expect your puppy to just know this!
- Whichever method you choose to correct your puppies biting problem the golden rule is
be consistent! You and every other person who comes into contact with your puppy have
to lay down the law every time your puppy has a nip.
Stop Your Puppy From Biting – Proven Techniques
- If you catch the biting problem early on it may be very simple to fix. Just try to
redirect the biting from your fingers to a toy or chew bone. This method is usually all
you’ll need if you have a very young puppy. As soon as your puppy starts to bite just say
No! and replace your fingers with a chew toy.
- My next favorite method is to make your dog think he is hurting you each time he has a
nip. This method really replicates the way dogs sort this biting out amongst themselves. When
they are biting and nipping each other it only stops when one puppy lets out a yelp. So
we can use this natural way dogs learn by letting out an Ouch! or an Arrr! when your puppy
starts to bite. Also as soon as you let out the Ouch! pull away and stop playing with your
dog for a while. Your puppy will soon get the message that when he starts to bite, his playmate
(you) goes away.
In bad biting cases as soon as your puppy latches onto your finger say No! and quickly
put your thumb inside his mouth under his tonque and your other finger under his chin. Hold it
there for about 10 seconds, (not too tightly) this will feel uncomfortable to your pup, and
he won’t be able to bite you.
- Again if your puppy has a severe biting problem you can try this technique. Put on a
pair of gloves and apply a foul tasting substance to it (something your dog doesn’t like). Your
dog will soon learn that if he bites you, it will won’t be tasty! This method produces a
negative association every time your dog decides to bite you. Some dogs are smart enough to
realise that when you take your foul tasting gloves off it is fine to sink their fangs into
you again!
If you have an older puppy (4-5 months) that bites you can use this sure fire technique.
Put a choke or pinch collar on your puppy and each time he bites you give the lead a short sharp
tug. This again will be an unpleasant association to your dog every time he bites you. It won’t
take him long to stop.
A couple of other methods that have been recommended to me, but I have never tried myself:
- Spray your puppy with water every time he bites.
- Fill up an empty tin can with rocks or coins. Each time your puppy starts biting say No!
and give the can a shake. He’ll hate the noise.
Like I mentioned earlier, the most important piece of advice regardless of which method you
choose is to be consistent

Start a Doggie Daycare

Jim McKiel asked:


Training is usually broken down into two types: obedience and behavioral. We will discuss obedience training in this article.

Obedience training for your new puppy should begin the day you bring him/her home. You should make obedience training fun and incorporate the training with play sessions. It is so easy to train a puppy when they are having fun and the puppy has no idea that they are learning valuable lessons. Please keep the sessions short and reward the puppy when they obey a command on the first call.

Some basic commands are: sit, stay, come and heel. Focusing on these commands with your new puppy is a good start. You should practice with your puppy at least twice every day and more often if you have the time. Make each practice session short so as not to tire the puppy or let the puppy become bored. Remember make it fun for both of you.

After your puppy has completed their vaccination course, you may enroll them in puppy classes. These classes are beneficial for both the puppy and owners. Before you enroll the puppy, stop by the class and observe the instructor during a training class. Is the class fun for both humans and animals? Do you feel comfortable with the type of training? Remember, your puppy’s welfare is at stake and you want to be satisfied with the training techniques. Also, make sure the class size is small because you will receive more instructions and individual attention. This class should be fun for both owner and puppy and educational for both. If you feel uncomfortable or you’re not happy with the trainers methods you may always find another class and instructor.

Puppy classes are invaluable. Your puppy will learn or reinforce the basic commands you have taught them and will be socialized. Socialization is the foundation of a well behaved dog. A puppy that is accustomed to being around many different people and animals is better behaved and less likely to be aggressive around people or other dogs. Make sure you practice the commands with your puppy at home and continue the socialization whenever you are out with your animal whether it is the park or just a walk around the block. Socialization is so very important during the first five months of the puppy’s life. Letting the puppy get use to strange sights, sounds and smells will make him/her a more stable dog as they grow older.

There are many classes your puppy can attend. Some are called Beginning Puppy Classes, Puppy Kindergarten, Puppy Class 1 and so forth. After your puppy has graduated from the first class, you can enroll them in the next class for further training and socialization. There can never be too much socialization or training for your puppy or dog. As the puppy learns new commands and branches out further in his obedience training, he/she will become more self assured and you as the owner will be more confident and allow them more freedom in the home. Training benefits both the puppy and the owner.

As the puppy grows older, you may want to enroll them in a beginning agility class or a Canine Good Citizen class. There are many continuing classes for puppy’s and dogs and the only limit is how much time you have to devote to your animal and the cost of the classes. There are many group classes offered that are not expensive and in some communities informal classes are formed by pet owners who just want their animals to play and exercise with other animals in dog parks. Dogs are social animals and are happiest when they can run and play with other dogs or play with their humans.

There are many books and articles on the different types of puppy and dog training. If you are not familiar with certain terms like reward training or Canine Good Citizen, do your research before enrolling your puppy or dog in any class. You want a rewarding experience for both you and the puppy in training class.

Dove Cresswells Dog Training

Anna Hart asked:


Labrador Retrievers have become the most popular dogs in the United States. Having reached the top, they have stayed there for a number of years, and seem reluctant to relinquish the crown.

Many of the Labradors that have found homes as a result of the breed’s popularity have become pets, but this dog was, and continues to be bred as a retrieving gun dog.

Labrador Puppies Hunting Homes

Visit a breeder or animal shelter, and you find many Labrador puppies hunting homes. Some will be purebred, AKC-registered dogs. Some will be mixed breed. Some will be bred for pets, while others will be bred for show. If you want Labrador puppies for hunting, however, you will want to look for specific characteristics.

Breeder

The best Labrador puppies for hunting are probably those that come from a good breeder. The breeder should be acquainted with the standard for the breed. More importantly, though, the breeder should be dedicated to, and passionate about, training, breeding, and hunting Labrador Retrievers.

Ask basic questions. Does the breeder use only breeding stock that comes from the finest field trial and hunt test lines available? Ask to see pedigrees of the breeding dogs. Ask to see proof of awards won.

Does the breeder monitor the health of breeding dogs? Are their Labs’ eyes and hips screened for genetic disorders before breeding? Will they guarantee the health of the Labrador puppies’ eyes and hips for a period of time? Do they keep kennels clean, clearly disinfected?

Are testimonials available from customers who have purchased Labrador puppies for hunting? Is there a possibility of talking directly to any of those people to learn more?

Labrador Puppies

Observe the puppies carefully, and ask questions. It won’t be too hard to choose the puppies that look nicest to you, but there are more important matters at stake if you want Labrador puppies for hunting.

Run through the following check list. Labrador puppies that have all or most of these 7 features are likely to be the most trainable for hunting. The 7 features are not necessarily listed in order of importance.

1. The Labrador puppies have been well socialized, including learning to be comfortable with children as well as adults: learning to get along with other dogs; introduction to birds; crate conditioning; and kennel conditioning.

2. The Labrador puppies have been introduced to water if the season permits.

3. They are obviously intelligent.

4. They are bright and alert when playing.

5. All of the Labrador puppies have respected pedigrees.

6. All of the Labrador puppies have had quality veterinarian care, being wormed, and receiving necessary shots.

7. They are clean and shiny.

New Owner

No matter how wonderful the Labrador puppies hunting homes are, if they are going to be Labrador puppies for hunting, the new owner will have a lot of responsibility. You will have to take those intelligent, energetic, eager Labrador puppies and teach them to retrieve birds for you. To do so, you may want to consider the following points.

1. It is a fallacy that your Labrador puppies must stay outside in a kennel if they are going to be good hunting dogs. Labrador puppies bond with their owners better, and develop much better temperaments if they are permitted to live indoors with the family.

2. For the first 5 or 6 months, you may want to teach your Labrador puppies little else than retrieving. That is, you may want to teach them to come when called. This is of topmost importance in retrieving. It is also important when an emergency arises, such as an unexpected vehicle, a snake, etc. It is a lesson that human children also should learn from a young age. You want your Labrador puppies to learn that “Come” means immediately running directly to you.

3. Some puppies are taught to sit when they are very young, but they receive so much praise, all they want to do is sit. Some are started out with an obedience course that would be used for any pet dog. They learn to obey many commands, but end up not wanting to add retrieving to the list.

4. Keeping Labrador puppies in the house allows you to use the hallway as an early “retrieving ground” for the puppies. When you throw a dummy down the hall, they have nowhere to go but back to you. As the puppies learn, you can sit to one side of the hallway, making them come directly to you. If they try to run past you, you can easily capture them.

If you are not experienced at training Labrador puppies for hunting, you may want to enlist a trainer who is, or follow use of the many books that offer complete training programs. Finally, even though you got your Labrador puppies for hunting, enjoy their undying affection and humor.

Dove Cresswells Dog Training

Dean Burton asked:


Bringing a new puppy into your household is a big commitment. First-time puppy owners are often filled with questions about how to care for their furry new companions. Preparing your home for a puppy before you bring her home will help ensure that you and your puppy adjust smoothly to the new living arrangement.

The following checklist is designed to help new puppy owners prepare for the arrival of a furry new family member:

-Purchase puppy food, water and food bowls, a collar and a leash before bringing the puppy home. These basic items are essential for any dog owner. Other items you may want to consider are a bed, house training pads, treats, grooming items, cleanup bags, carpet/upholstery cleaner and puppy-safe chews.

-Puppy Proof the house. Puppies are bursting with curiosity, and chewing is one way they explore objects. Unfortunately, your puppy will not come equipped with the ability to distinguish between his chew toy and your expensive shoes. Therefore, removing items you do not want your puppy to leave a mark on is an important step of puppy proofing your home. Some tips for puppy proofing are:

1. Remove stray items from the floor of your home and plan to keep the area clutter free throughout puppyhood (shoes, clothing and children’s toys are good examples).

2. Cover, remove or put away electrical cords that are within your puppy’s reach.

3. Keep all household cleaners, insect poisons and other chemicals safely stowed away.

4. Ensure that any plants in your home are safe by checking with your veterinarian.

5. Pay close attention to potential hazards in the outdoor area of your home as well.

-Stock up on chew toys. The more chew toys your puppy has access to, the less likely she will be to chew on your valuable possessions. Chewing is a natural instinct for dogs, and especially young puppies. Praise your puppy when she chews on toys that are hers and she will soon learn what is fair game and what is off limits.

-Purchase an appropriate sized crate. If you plan to crate train your dog, puppyhood is the best time to do so. Crate training allows your dog to adjust to being in a crate so that she will exhibit good behavior in situations such as being boarded, flying on a plane and going to the vet, when being in a kennel may be unavoidable. It is important to instill a positive association with the crate and never use it for punishment. Many dogs learn to love their crates and use them willingly for naps or sleeping at night. For more information about crate training, please see our Crate Training your Puppy article.

-Establish rules to live by. Your puppy will understand the rules of the household much quicker if they are consistent from the start. Decide on the rules by which your puppy must abide before bringing her home. For example, is she allowed on the furniture? Will she sleep in your bed at night? What area will she be confined to as a puppy? Instilling structure immediately will prevent your puppy from developing bad habits that will become increasingly frustrating as she grows older.

Puppies are wonderfully energetic and curious, and surprises are part of the adventure of having one in your home. Even if you carefully check off each item on this list and feel completely prepared for the arrival of your new canine companion, your puppy may find mischief in places you have overlooked. Be sure to supervise your puppy at all times when she is roaming free in your home.

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Brigitte Smith asked:


Puppy training is often considerably easier than training an adult or adolescent dog. One reason is that the puppy is essentially a “blank slate”, untroubled by past training techniques and other issues. Another more indirect reason is that you are probably more likely to spend more time and have greater patience with your new puppy than you would after the “novelty” has worn off somewhat. And it tends to be human nature to have greater patience with young (dogs and people), since we know that they’re inexperienced in life and they’re usually eager to learn.
In other ways, however, the puppy can be a little more difficult to train than an older dog. One challenge to training a new puppy is that puppies are more easily distractible than older dogs. Everything is new to a puppy, and every new experience provides a new chance for distraction. For this reason, it is best to keep training sessions short when working with a puppy, and to end each training sessions on a positive note.
It is also important to allow the puppy plenty of time to play, and to interact with other puppies and dogs. Socialization training is vital to making your new puppy a good canine citizen, as dog aggression is a growing problem in many areas. A properly socialized dog learns how to play properly with other dogs, and overly aggressive play is punished by the other dogs in the play group.
This type of play learning is something that happens among siblings in litters of puppies. As the puppies play with each other, they learn what is appropriate and what is not. Inappropriate behavior, such as hard biting or scratching, is punished by the other puppies, by the mother dog, or both.
Failure to properly socialize can be a major problem with your dog, and it is an important reason for always buying from a responsible breeder, and never taking your puppy home before he is 8 weeks of age. A large proportion of this important socialization experience occurs in those last weeks with the puppy’s mother and siblings.
A responsible and experienced breeder knows this, and will never allow prospective puppy owners take puppies home until 8 weeks of age, but it is nevertheless a very important and useful fact to be aware of yourself.
Unfortunately, many puppies are removed from their mothers and sold or adopted before this socialization has fully occurred. In these instances, even more than ever, puppy play sessions initiated by you are a very important part of any puppy training session. Most good puppy preschool training programs provide time in each session for this type of dog interaction.
Introducing your puppy to new experiences and new locations is also an important part of puppy training. Teaching your dog to be obedient and responsive, even in the face of many distractions, is very important when training dogs and puppies.
One great way to socialize your puppy both to new people and new dogs is to take it on a trip to your local pet store. Many major pet store chains, and some independent ones as well, allow pet parents to bring their furry children, and these stores can be great places for puppies to get used to new sights, sounds and smells. Of course you will want to make sure the store allows pets before heading over, and you will also want to keep the visits fairly short, both for your puppy’s sake, and in consideration of the pet store personnel.
It is important for puppy owners to structure their pet’s environment so that the puppy is rewarded for good behaviors and not rewarded for others. One good example of this is jumping on people. Many people inadvertently reward this behavior because it can be cute. While it is true that jumping can be cute for a 10 pound puppy, it will not be so cute when that puppy has grown into a 100 pound dog.
Laughing at your puppy, or paying any attention to him at all when he jumps up, will be interpreted as a reward by your puppy – he will learn that he will receive attention from you when he does this. So be very careful not to confuse your puppy. There are two strategies for undesired behaviors – firmly saying “No” to your puppy, and/or ignoring the behavior completely. For “repeat offenders”, the ignoring method works best, as it is possible that your puppy will be interpreting ANY attention (even you saying “No” to him) as a reward for the behavior.
Conversely, of course, good behaviors should be rewarded immediately (either with treats or simply with lots of attention and fuss – saying “Good boy” in a very positive tone of voice, and stroking your dog at the same time is often just as well received as treats are). This type of positive reinforcement will result in a well behaved adult dog that is a valued member of both the family and the community at large.
The positive reinforcement method can also be used in potty training the new puppy. Teaching a puppy to use a unique surface such as gravel or asphalt is a good technique. The theory is that the puppy will associate this surface with going potty, and therefore be reluctant to use other surfaces (like your kitchen carpet for example) as a potty. Many puppies can, with a little patience, be readily trained to use the same spot for toileting. This is a great technique, as it will train your puppy to go “on command”, and will save you having to scour the back yard when cleaning up after your puppy.

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To get your puppy off to a good start, schedule a veterinary check-up within the first 48 hours of bringing it home. You can then get a clean bill of health, a schedule for future vaccinations and spay/neuter surgeries and advice on food, training, parasite preventatives and trainer recommendations.
What to consider before getting a puppy?
* Investigate the breeds and mixes.
* Ensure you are familiar with the breed’s adult size & personality traits.
* Estimate costs of regular veterinary care, flea/tick and heartworm prevention.
* Estimate costs of grooming, food and how it fits into your lifestyle or family life.
How to keep your puppy safe?
* Create a safe environment at your home. A puppy, just like a human baby, finds the tiniest nooks and crannies to get into and they often get into trouble playing with computer cables, electric cords, cleaning products, pantyhose, etc. Hide or contain wires and cables, put baby locks on low cabinets (little paws and noses can pry doors open), pick up stray strings, needles, paperclips, shoelaces, and move valuables, books and breakables to new heights.

* Crate – search for one with enough room for your puppy to turn around, lie down and sleep but not too spacious as this leaves room for it to eliminate in areas where it doesn’t sleep.

* Until your puppy has finished all rounds of immunisation, he should not mix with a lot of strange dogs or be where there is a high volume of other dogs walking, as he needs to be fully protected before venturing in public places.
What are the handy things you need to have to care for a puppy?
* Use non-tipping metal food and water dishes – this helps keep the dishes from sliding.
* Buy some stain and odour neutralizer – your puppy will always be drawn to areas where “accidents” took place, a good neutralizer will eliminate odours from its urine or stool.
* Buy a brush, nail clipper and a comb if your puppy will eventually grow into a dog with a medium to long coat.
* Get an adjustable collar, identification tag and a six-foot nylon or leather leash with a small clip. Try to avoid chain collars or leashes.
How to house-train (potty-train) your puppy?
* House-training a puppy is not difficult if you’re consistent and stick to a schedule. You will probably be feeding three times a day. First thing in the morning, take the puppy out of its crate and quickly take it outside to where you’d like it to eliminate. Be patient, and as soon as your puppy starts to eliminate, CALMLY praise it with “Good dog” (or whatever term you’d like to use). When your puppy has finished all its business, take a few minutes to play or cuddle it. What you want to teach your puppy is the sooner it eliminates, the sooner it gets to play with you. When playtime is over, bring it inside, feed your puppy breakfast and let it have water. In about 15-20 minutes, take it outside again and repeat the routine. Once back inside, if you have time to monitor your puppy, you may let it explore its surroundings. After that, put it back in its crate.
* Never leave your puppy in the crate for more than its limit in controlling its bladder. Usually a puppy can hold it for as many hours as its age in months. For example, a 2-month old puppy can stay in the crate for no more than 2 hours, as long as it has eliminated before being crated. Repeat the feeding, elimination, play routine at lunch and dinner, then no more water or food 2 hours before bedtime. If the weather is very warm, a few ice cubes in your puppy’s water bowl will quench its thirst but not stimulate its bladder like water will. Generally, at 8 weeks to 3 months, your puppy will have developed better bladder and bowel control and is capable of sleeping through the night. But remember to take your puppy out first thing in the morning!
* When your puppy pees on one spot, he tends to go back to exactly the same place over and over because your puppy recognises the smell. Therefore take your puppy to the same spot every time. If your puppy does it in the right spot, lavish him with lots of praises! Use your happy voice, your puppy will soon know he did it right and will want to do it right the next time.
* If your puppy had an accident somewhere inside the house, make sure you clean the floor or the carpet thoroughly to neutralise the smell. A good quality pet odour remover should do the trick.
* Each time you want your puppy to defecate or urinate, teach you puppy a specific word by repeating the same word many times, for example “go poop”, “go potty”. By repeating the same words each time, it will become another command for your puppy and he will be able to do it when you mention the command.
* Ideally you will have a dog door installed so that your puppy can be trained to go outside when it needs to eliminate. If this is not practical, keep an eye on your puppy, try to observe how your puppy normally acts before he pees, and take him outside as soon as you see the signs. You can also teach your puppy to ask for the door, but that might take some time.
* Establish a routine – for example, after a nap or before play time, take your puppy outside to eliminate.
What are the development stages and behaviours you can expect from a puppy to a dog?
* The Juvenile Stage: 3 to 4 Months
The Juvenile stage typically lasts from 3 to 4 months of age, and it’s during this time your puppy behaves a little more independent – he might start ignoring the commands he’s only recently learned and tries to exert his new-found independence with its “I don’t have to listen to you” attitude!
You will need to apply firm and gentle reinforcement of commands and training at this stage. Your puppy might even start biting you, play biting or even a real attempt to challenge your authority. A sharp “No!” or “No biting!” command, followed by several minutes of ignoring him should take care of this problem.
When you bond with your puppy, avoid games like tug of war or wrestling with him. He may perceive tug of war as a game of dominance – especially if he wins and wrestling is another game that can rapidly get out of control. As your puppy’s strength grows, he will want to play-fight to see who is stronger – even if you win, the message your puppy receives is that it’s alright to fight with you but this is NOT the message you want to send out!
* The Brat Stage: 4 to 6 Months
Your puppy will demonstrate even more independence and wilfulness during the Brat Stage which begins at about 4 months and runs until about 6 months. You may observe a decline in his urge to please you – expect to see more “testing the limits” type behaviours. During this time he’ll be going through a teething cycle and will also be looking for things to chew on to relieve the pain and pressure. Frozen doggie bones can help sooth him during this period.
Your puppy may try to assert his new “dominance” over other family members, especially children. It is common for puppies at this age to ignore commands to return or come to their owners, which can be a dangerous, even fatal, breakdown in your dog’s response to you. If you turn him loose in a public place, and he bolts, the chances of injury or even death can result – so don’t take the chance. Continue his obedience and basic commands training, but make sure to never let him off his leash during this time unless you’re in a confined area.
Your puppy will now begin to go through the hormonal changes brought on by his growing sexual maturity and you may see signs of rebelliousness. (Think adolescent teen-age boy!) If you haven’t already, you should have your puppy neutered (or spayed if you have a female) during this time.
* The Young Adult Stage: 6 to 18 Months
From 6 months to approximately 18 months, the Young Adulthood stage takes place and is usually a stabilising time in your puppy’s life. He’s young, he’s exuberant, he’s bursting with energy and yet he’s learning all the things he needs to become a full-fledged adult dog. Be realistic in your expectations of your dog at this time, just because he’s approaching his full growth and may look like an adult dog, he’s not as seasoned and experienced as you might expect.
Slowly increase the scope of activities and training for your dog. You can start more advanced training during this period, such as herding or agility training. Otherwise, extend his activities to include more people and other animals – allow him to interact with non-threatening or non-aggressive dogs.

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