Autumn P asked:


I know the cost of a purebred chihuahuas has probably increased with the appearance of the tacobell dog a few years ago and Paris Hilton using them as a statis symbol. But when you want one just to love and hug, Just for a pet why do you have to go into debt? Pet quality non-breeding (spayed and neutered) chihuahuas are no better than a mutt, really. I am just curious. I will probably go to the local humane society and adopt a small cute dog. It is just that there was always a chihuahuas around when I was growing up and I thought I’d like to have one now. But I can’t go into that much debt.
I have learned (in Canada) most breeders spay or neuter the chihuahuas before selling them and they are still asking from $1200.00 to $2000.00. I have contacted 2 Rescue Shelters and they are selling these chihuahuas for $1200.00. I am not looking for a show quality dog. I am looking for a pet. Only a pet. I do not want to mortgage my house either. For the price breeders are asking for a “fixed” dog is rediculous. I mean they are no longer show quality. They can not be used for breeding. There valu other than a statis symbol is “0″. I am not looking for a statis symbol. or a shiny object to place on my finger. I just want a pet. Chihuahuas were a family pet when I was growing up. I can tell you we paid no more that $200.00 then. I just find this pricing for a dog you just want to love is silly.
I agree. If these dogs are show quality dogs then ask the $1200 to $2000 price.

But once you spay or neuter them (most breeders in Canada seem to do this) there is no monitary value left for the dog. It is just a fixed dog. Worthless.

I am not saying that it isn’t difficult to breed these little guys. And I don’t care that you spay or neuter them. I don’t mind reimbursing the breeder for the neutering, and first shots and a little something extra for actually breeding the pup. But to ask $1200.00 for a non-breeding, unshowable dog is …. well just crazy. I don’t mean to argue the point. But as yet I haven’t seen an answer that best answers my question. Why are breeders asking $1200.00 to $2000.00 for a non-breeding already spayed/neutered, unshowable dog?

Sit Stay Fetch, Good Dog!

itsjustme asked:


We have gotten some bad fleas this year and I found a tick on one of my dogs the other day…I need ideas on good flea and tick shampoo or dip that acctually works!!!!

Also, any flea/tick meds?? which are best and most effective???

(for 3 dachshunds and 1lab pup-four and a half months old)

Dog Lovers Mega Pack

death0fseasons16 asked:


My chihuahua is very playful and active, he loves to run around the house and play with his toys. If i neuter him is his temperment going to change? will he just wanna lay around the house all the time and be lazy? Also, Is it bad to neuter your pup before he is 1 year old….ive heard mixed things.

Sit Stay Fetch, Good Dog!

mattsoccer26 asked:


I got a labrador retriever puppy a month ago when it was 3 months old. Since then my puppy (Buddy) goes to the door though he does not bark to let us know that he has to do his business. If we don’t let him out in time he runs off and does his business inside my house. This is my 1st pup so I do not know what to do. If you know anything please help me out. Thanks for your time and concern.

Start a Doggie Daycare

Rex Lanigan asked:


The progression of a puppy in the first ten weeks is very important. Just like a human baby, a puppy needs lots of love and care. There are many factors which can hinder a puppy’s physical & mental growth.

The First Two Weeks

A puppy is born blind and deaf, and for the first two weeks of his life, he doesn’t do a lot except sleep (around 90 percent of the time) and eat. While he can’t hear or see, he can feel and smell, and the combination enables him to find the all-important nipples on his mother. The mother dispenses milk that contains antibodies that help the pup survive for six to ten weeks. Propelling the pup to his mother are very undeveloped and weak legs. The puny legs also allow the puppy to huddle together with his siblings. The legs develop somewhat while the puppies are asleep because they twitch, something called “activated sleep.”

The puppy is nurtured by his mother, of course, which includes his mom licking his belly, which stimulates the little creature to defecate and urinate.

Depending on how the mother feels, human beings may or may not be allowed to pick up and nurture the puppies every day. When this occurs, it helps man and dog bond more easily.

The Third Week

During this week, the puppy’s other senses start to operate. He can detect light and dark, as well as movement, and will respond to large or sudden sounds. He will start to interact with his brothers and sisters, and he starts developing social skills by this interaction, i.e., feeling them with his paws and snout.

He learns to crawl, and his tail begins to wag. He can also venture from his mother to urinate on his own. In some cases, puppies, though not weaned, can be fed liquid food suggested by a veterinarian.

The Fourth and Fifth Weeks

During this period, the puppy’s muscular development increases to the point where he can walk, run, and pounce on his littermates. It is a period of endless exploration, and the puppy’s interaction with his siblings teaches him a lot, including when he’s biting too hard – which elicits a tough response from a littermate – and where he belongs in the aristocracy of the pack – he will alternately sleep at the bottom and top of the puppy pile.

If the puppy is misbehaving, Mom occasionally may get involved by growling at him. This discipline sharpens the puppy’s sense of right and wrong, which can make training easier. The human training process becomes so much harder if the puppy is not disciplined by his mother, like dogs that are orphaned.

The puppy is likely to stop suckling during this time as his teeth develop. Mom will chew, swallow and bring up food for her puppy to eat, which he is able to do in the fourth week.

The fourth week is usually the time when fear is developed: Most of a puppy’s fears are picked up by instinct from his mother, and will include growing scared of his owner if he is treated badly.

The latter portion of this time is when the puppy starts to become socialized with the human family, becoming more aware of the sights and sounds in the house, as well as interacting more with individual members.

The Sixth and Seventh Weeks

This is a time of wonder and curiosity for the young pup, but he is also very sensitive to emotional harm. His emotions will be revealed; he’ll start barking to get attention, whining to show fear, and whimpering if hurt. Take care not to scare or upset him in any way. It’s best that the dog be allowed to relate one on one with a human being, allowing trust to start to build. It is also a time of great fan. He should be given a supply of toys, because he will be very rambunctious and needs them to interact. If he goes too far when playing, his mother will put him in his place. When the puppies are weaned, have their own teeth, and can eat by themselves, the mother dog assumes the role of alpha or pack leader. The mother will show her puppies – using toys – when it’s appropriate to bite.

Puppies will also attack each other to establish dominance and to determine who the alpha is.

The Eighth Week

During the eighth week, the puppy will start to develop bathroom habits. He will use his own place to go, and it won’t be near where he eats. He will look for a place to relieve himself by sniffing about. The eighth week is also a crucial time in socialization – this is the time when fears can be established. You should take care to make sure that all the puppy’s experiences are positive ones, or he may carry around the fear for life. For this reason it is preferable to wait until after the eighth week to take a puppy to his new home. For example, if the puppy gets carsick, he may be afraid of cars, and it will take a lot of training and desensitization to get him to enjoy riding in one.

The Tenth Week

Now the puppies stop battling each other – the alpha and omega in the litter have been established. This is the best time to get a sense of a puppy’s personality. Any fear the puppy might have experienced in a strange place stops – he is ready to find a new home.

Start a Doggie Daycare

This is me asked:


My beagle is 7 weeks, my rabbit is 5 months. The beagle just wants to play with the rabbit but the rabbit just tries to attack the pup. She is slightly bigger then the pup

Start a Doggie Daycare

John Burns asked:


Once you arrive home with your puppy there will inevitably be a period of adjustment, but even during the first week or two your new arrival can begin to learn what is considered acceptable behaviour in your home – where it is supposed to go to the toilet, what it is allowed to chew, where it can sleep and so on.

Some people do not mind having their dog on the couch. For others, a pet on the furniture would be unacceptable behaviour. The same holds true for begging at the table, jumping up at people, and other objectionable behaviours.

Decide at the start what your household policy will be, enforce it from these first early weeks and most importantly be consistent.

Failure to teach your dog the rules of the house when he is young can result in an unmanageable adult dog.

If you have decided that your puppy is going to sleep in a dog bed or crate, make sure you enforce that behaviour from day one. Your puppy might cry in response to separation from mother or litter mates. A hot water bottle and plenty of TLC should provide a little extra comfort.

Teaching your puppy where you expect him or her to go to the bathroom is probably the most critical part of training

The best method of toilet training is to take your puppy out within several minutes after each meal, after each nap, and after playing. These are predictable moments during the day when bowel and bladder are most full.

Feed your puppy at scheduled mealtimes and avoid snacks between feedings if at all possible. Allowing your puppy continuous access to food or water makes house training more difficult. Prevent “accidents” between meals by taking your pup out before the accidents occur.

The outward signs a puppy may show include circling, squatting, whimpering, sniffing the floor or sneaking off and heading for the door, and he must be taken outside immediately to perform. If you’re not quick enough, the puppy should still be taken outside to finish the act.

It is best to walk your puppy within 15 minutes or sooner after each meal. Take him out to the same spot each time. If your puppy is too young to walk on a leash, carry him outside to an enclosed, safe area. Stay nearby and play with or pet him.

Praise immediately once the task is completed. A few tasty treats offered when the puppy goes in the right place can encourage good behaviour. These then can be given intermittently and then stopped after training has been successful.

Don’t be fooled if your puppy happens to get it right for the first few weeks. Start now, and stick with it until your pup really has no accidents. Toilet training isn’t great fun, but it is crucial.

Chewing if often a headache with pups, and many a carpet or chair has suffered from the ravages of puppy teeth. Initially, a puppy will use his mouth to investigate his environment, and throughout the teething process, it gives a puppy relief to chew on all manner of items. Providing appropriate items for your puppy to chew on can sometimes be a simple way of solving the problem.

At a very young age puppies begin to learn how much pressure with their mouths is too much by the reactions of their mothers and litter mates. When puppies play, they bite each other’s ears and chew each other’s necks, until one bites down too hard. Then, the bitten puppy lets out a piercing cry, gets up and walks away.

This teaches the biting puppy that when it is too rough, play ends. If it is you that the puppy is chewing, the moment the pressure increases use a high pitched cry, leaving your hand in his mouth. Once the pressure is released, slowly remove your hand and praise him, offering a suitable chew toy in exchange.

Socialisation training is the other aspect of behaviour that needs reinforcing early on. Key experiences during the first three months of life will form the basis of how the puppy relates to and interacts with many individuals that they will come across in their future lives such as:

• Adults and children

• Other dogs and puppies

• Different types of pets, livestock and horses

• And not forgetting the postman!

Also during this period puppies get used to the every day hassles of life which include:

• Household noises and appliances

• Cars and traffic

• Crowds

• Periods of separation

Unfortunately the primary course of vaccinations for puppies will only be completed at about 11 to 12 weeks of age, which leaves only a small window during the last month of the critical ‘sensitive developmental period’ to achieve socialisation.

The aim of training is to achieve a puppy that is friendly and eager to meet people and other animals. You can then build on this by preventing bad behaviour, ignoring or distracting unwanted actions and rewarding and praising good behaviour. Hopefully, this will produce a dog that is a pleasure to own.

Emma B asked:


I’m getting a black and silver miniature schnauzer puppy and I was just wondering what people recommend as the best shampoos for a pup and later on for a dog. I don’t intend to show him but I want him to look his best, in colour and coat condition. Also important to me is that the shampoo be as natural as possible and biodegradable etc.

Dog Food Secrets!

lovley girl xxx asked:


is there anyone in the yorkshire area that has one preferbly a pup?

Dog Food Secrets!